Scottish Haunts

In Scotland, and most of Europe, cemeteries battle with the issue of space. It's finite, but the number of people being buried is not. So many cemeteries are cramped or must engineer ingenious ways to display headstones. Other methods, like mass burial and burying over old parts of the cemetery are not uncommon, though Americans usually find the idea appalling. 

Greyfriars Kirk in Edinburgh uses church walls for headstone display. 

The older headstones are often spooky. Invoking the spirits of the dead and haunted to dance upon the dead's grave. They are not unlike older headstones in America as they also often have a religious or superstitious undertone.

A rather frightening but all to typical headstone from days gone by. This was taken at Greyfriars Kirk as well.

We visited Grayfriars Kirk in Edinburgh which is famous for a little Skye terrier named Bobby. He faithfully sat at his dead owners grave until his death years later. Bobby was then buried close to his owner's headstone and several monuments have been built in his honor.

Another tightly packed cemetery. 

Scottish Foods

Scottish food isn't all about the haggis. In fact, some would argue that Scotland has some of the best food in the world. Claire MacDonald, wife of the chief of Clan Donald, cook and food writer is passionate about Scottish cuisine. For the past 30 years she has worked to change the opinion that the United Kingdom has little to offer in the way of spectacular food. So if you like hearty, meat and potatoes type meals than Scotland will satisfy your cravings. Below is a picture of a meal I was served at a celebration in Scotland. I found that most meals in restaurants were heavy on the meat, potato and bread portion and light on vegetables and salads. If you are not a ravenous carnivore, there are many non-meat dishes to pick from as well.

Typical Proportions: 1/2 meat, 1/4 potatoes, 1/4 vegetables 

The Scots also celebrate their heritage and land through excellent fish recipes, soups, breads and best of all, dessert. Oats and whiskey are prevalent in Scottish cooking. However, any restaurant will have a fine selection of vegetarian and even vegan entrees.

Some foods to try at home or on your travels: Forfar Bridies: a pastry filled with delicious beef and buttered onions. Clapshot: mashed potato and turnip (swede) side dish, with plenty of butter, chives and nutmeg. Clootie Dumpling: a steamed pudding of white raisins (sultanas), currants, marmalade and spices, served with custard.

You may also want to try arbroath smokie, cock-a-leekie stew, stovies, cranachan and atholl brose. For the less adventurous, try vegetarian haggis, skirlie, Caledonian cream and Edinburgh fog.

Afternoon Tea Anyone?

I could discuss tea for years, but just one more post (for now). Is it high tea or afternoon tea? Apparently the British afternoon tea is similar to what Americans call high tea. In fact, the British rarely partake of high tea anymore. Just another way Americans change the words and meanings around, like napkin instead of serviette or stroller instead of pram.

So whether you are considering high tea in the US or afternoon tea in the UK, you'll be served nearly the same thing. First a selection of fine loose-leaf teas, brewed in individual pots will be steeped for five minutes or so, before pouring in lovely teacups. Cream poured before or after the tea? It doesn't matter anymore, but not so long ago it quickly revealed your social standing. Those of the lower class poured cream in first, so that the hot tea would not chip the glaze or paint on the cup. The upper class, wanting to separate themselves, made it fashionable to pour the cream in after the tea.

Afternoon Tea: Super Irish Breakfast loose-leaf tea & egg salad on toast. 

Often a three-tiered tray will appear with sandwiches, scones and pastries, which is consumed in that order. Sandwiches usually consist of egg, cucumber and chicken salad, but in Scotland it's not unheard of to have fish paste or smoked salmon.  Creamed scones plain or dressed with fruits and nuts are paired with jam and devonshire cream (clotted cream). Linzer cookies, cupcakes, shortbread, cakes, tarts and sweet breads are all popular in the final section of afternoon tea. The amount served varies from a light afternoon snack to a full meal. 

Some of my personal favorites: Millionaire's Shortbread, Butterscotch Tart and Dundee Cake (notice they're all desserts). 

Tea Rooms: near & far

I'm always up for something highly Scottish. Tea rooms in Scotland are everywhere, have great variety and reasonable prices. Here in the States they are not as plentiful, but are an elegant and memorable experience. This weekend I went with my friends to high tea. We had a great time and spent hours enjoying the food, teas and conversation. In Scotland the tea experience was more exotic in food and tea flavors, but the atmosphere was very cozy and, as our host explained, 'very routine for natives.' Here are the two tea rooms. 

                                         Tea Room in Scotland:                                             

Tea Room in Pittsburgh: 

The experience was also very different. Here tea rooms often require reservations and have a set menu. In Scotland, since tea rooms are an everyday occasion, you just pick a table and order from a tray of desserts freshly made.

If you've never been to a tea room, try it this Christmas season. Many tea rooms will be decorated and showcase holiday teas and pastries-a perfect way to get in the Christmas mood. 

Scotland or Pennsylvania?

Since my return from Scotland, I've noticed similarities in weather, scenery and speech. It's no wonder so many Scots made their home throughout the Appalachian Mountains and surrounding foothills. But I'll let you decide: Scotland or Pennsylvania? 

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Here are the answers: 1. Pennsylvania 2. Pennsylvania  3. Pennsylvania  4. Scotland 5. Pennsylvania 6. Pennsylvania 7. Scotland 8. Scotland  9. Scotland  10. Pennsylvania 11. Scotland 12. Pennsylvania 13. Pennsylvania 14. Pennsylvania

The Highlands are Calling

I've been dreaming about those lovely hills and glens again. They seem so far away and are, now that I'm back to good old US of A. But somethings will never leave us no matter how hard we try to let go. So until I can say hello highlands again, it's my intent to share what I love and miss about those misty covered mountains and all of Scotland. Fàilte (Welcome) to my blog.